Skip to main content

XV Dress

A few months ago, I had the privilege of designing a quinceañera dress, with a twist. The dress itself was simple, it consisted of a sweetheart neckline with 1" inch straps and a circle skirt. The twist to the dress was, that it had a character hoodie jacket. If you are familiar with the Regular show, there is a character by the name of Mordecai. He is this blue bird with a Mohawk hair do.
This is Mordecai.

This costume was part of the inspiration, we mainly focused on the jacket. The jacket was going to be longer instead of a bolero. The fabrics would be more luxurious satins. It was very important to get the character to look a like as well as making him 3-D. I've done quite a few character hoodies in the past for Halloween costumes so I knew this would not be hard.

I began by marking my style lines onto my dress form. I generally like the draping method better than flat pattern. Once I've draped and marked my muslin I transferred the pattern pieces onto paper.

Here is a little preview of my fine tuning flat patterns. At this stage I make sure lines are straight and curves are curved.  

Once my patterns are cut I always like to do a test garment. At this stage we can look for fit issues or any design flaws. It's a rough draft to the real deal.

It is nice to see it evolve and exciting to try to picture it, how it will look once the real fashion fabric are cut out.

For the jacket we decided to go with a white satin, baby blue satin, and some black satin for the accent details. Even though the quinceañera dress was simple I wanted the fabrics to still be fun and party like. Therefore, we decided on small white sequin fabric for the top. For the skirt we went with baby blue tulle and satin for the underling. It's really hard to find tiny sequin fabric where I live, lucky for me we took a little trip to LA. I did a little shopping at the fabric district, I stopped by the infamous Michael Levine Fabrics store. It felt like heaven so many wonderful selections.

Here is the sequin fabric for the top.

We did a fitting, and there were some adjustments to be made. For the top I had to move the straps further out. 

The back had to be taken in because it was too big.

One of the things I found hard about this design was getting a visual on the tulle skirt since muslin doesn't have the same volume as tulle. The client said she didn't want it to be too overwhelming, volumizing, or an exaggerated tulle skirt. For this reason, the tulle was cut as a circle skirt as well. I ended up getting 10 yards of tulle and I was able to get three full circles out of it. Which was perfect since she didn't want it to be too dramatic. As we all know more tulle = more drama.

Once, the pattern pieces were adjusted I proceeded with cutting onto the real fabric. Let's just say by the time I was done cutting I was having a sequins confetti party in my studio.

I really loved the final product. It screamed party dress but not to loud.

 Here is the front view of the dress.
Side view

 The back view

The jacket, had a lot of pattern pieces due to different color blocking that made up the character's head and arms.

Both the hair and the beak were stuffed with cotton filling. I had to stuff them very tightly specially for the Mohawk because it had to sit sturdy at the top of the head. The eyes were hand stitched since the material was too delicate. I decided to incorporate tiny black beads for each of his eyes, thought it added a special touch. I really tried to captured his big eyes and looking at the finish hoodie I must say I did him justice.  
When she saw the final product she was super happy with the dress especially with the jacket. The garment was pretty special for her not only because this was her quinceañera dress but because she was a Mordecai fan. I felt great knowing she loved it so much. So much that her mother warned her not try to live in it lol.

Here is a picture of her on her big day. She looked very pretty and happy on her special day. :)


Popular posts from this blog

Heart Cut Out Dress

Hello everyone, it's been a while since I popped up on here! I've been crazy busy being a momma, wife, and a Etsy shop owner. It has been quite an interesting journey, very different from custom designing. I've learn so much these past months and I am continuing to learn. Hats off to you if you are a Boss Mom it takes a lot to run a home and a business!

I'll be sharing with you all some of my Etsy designs with you all incase you don't follow my social media or Etsy shop. Since we are still in the month of February I'll be sharing my Valentine's day dresses. I made two designs for my shop the first design is the Heart Cut Out dress.

For this design I wanted a fun focal point, I decided a heart cut out on the back would be cute. I started drafting and making a muslin sample I had to tweak it a couple of times because getting the heart shape wasn't as easy as I had thought. After three attempts I finally got the heart shape that I was aiming for. The fin…

Belle Inspired Dress

Ever since they announced the new Beauty and the Beast movie, I was excited to go see it since this is a classic Disney movie that I grew up watching. I really wanted to take my daughter and share a little piece of my childhood. She had already seen the cartoon version, so she was very familiar with Belle. She is a huge fan of the Disney princess, she can literally name them all. I thought it be cute if she wore an inspired Belle dress to go see the movie. I thought long and hard how I wanted to design the dress, because I didn't want it to be too overly done. My initial thought was lace but I really wanted her to be comfy while watching the movie. That week was pretty hectic to go fabric shopping, luckily I remembered I had a soft knit fabric in my stash!!

I wanted a modern take on the Belles dress, still keeping the classic yellow, and off the shoulders look. I quickly drafted the pattern pieces, which included an off the shoulder front and back. Before cutting the off the shou…

Pleated Floral Dress

This past Easter I wanted to make my daughter her Easter dress. I knew exactly how I wanted the dress to be basic bodice and box pleat skirt. I don't normally buy pdf patterns but I was short on time and the design was already available. I decided to purchase from Mingo & Grace the pdf pattern is called Blake. It is an amazing pattern it features basic bodice, racer back, box pleats on the skirt, and hidden pockets.
Beautiful close up detail of the dress.
I used a heavy twill cotton fabric which added shape and volume to the box pleats on the skirt. I omitted the hidden pockets because my daughter doesn't know about pockets yet. The bodice is fully lined and I used an invisible zipper. If you haven't noticed by now but I'm obsessed with invisible zippers they add a hint of elegance to the garment. The hem calls for 2" inches but I thought that was too much so I decided to do 1" inch hem. To keep the conceal theme going I decided to do a blind hem. Since …